What are you using to tie back the wires on your fuel system?

[fubar569]

This will be the 2nd time now that I'll have had to yank my gasohol out and tie back the wires. Telltale signs of only going to 7/8 instead of full and not going below 1/4 tank which honestly this may have been what did it this time since I Ran short on the drive home from the track...which could've dropped the arm just enough to catch.

I last did this spring of 2020 so I'm impressed the zips last this long in E85 but it is frustrating as hell to do this.

Is there a trick I am missing? Something more resistant to higher blend fuels?

...or I could just upgrade to a triple while I am in there. You know. For science.

 

[yellow_hellcat]

Is this a dual pump setup? Do you have a picture of the offending wires?

I ask because my dual setup stops short of full and seems to linger at a 1/4 tank on the way back down. Even getting an intermittent CEL (P0461) that seems to stay away for a bit when I clear it.

 

[fubar569]

Is this a dual pump setup? Do you have a picture of the offending wires?

I ask because my dual setup stops short of full and seems to linger at a 1/4 tank on the way back down. Even getting an intermittent CEL (P0461) that seems to stay away for a bit when I clear it.

It is the injected engineering dual pump setup. Pretty sure everyone uses the same Fore hat though...so they share a lot of the same issues.

Yeah. That is exactly what mine did the first time. Had to pull the pumps out and tie back the leads that run from the hat to the pumps inside so the float arm didn't get snagged.

It's a two piece hat and needs split apart to get it out of the tank.

Fair warning. It sucks balls. Don't drop the o-ring seals, do it on as low of a tank as possible and DO NOT jar that float/sender card anymore than absolutely required to get it out of the tank.

 

[yellow_hellcat]

It is the injected engineering dual pump setup. Pretty sure everyone uses the same Fore hat though...so they share a lot of the same issues.

Yeah. That is exactly what mine did the first time. Had to pull the pumps out and tie back the leads that run from the hat to the pumps inside so the float arm didn't get snagged.

It's a two piece hat and needs split apart to get it out of the tank.

Fair warning. It sucks balls. Don't drop the o-ring seals, do it on as low of a tank as possible and DO NOT jar that float/sender card anymore than absolutely required to get it out of the tank.

Thanks for the reply. I went ahead and bought another sending unit as I wasn't sure if I bent the stock one when I put it in and that was causing my issue but it sounds like the wires are probably it.

Time to drain the tank and see if I can find another new and creative way to cause myself pain by dropping parts with the swap out.

 

[fubar569]

If you can spare the time...only pull 1 of the hat bolts and get a ride to the local hardware store...that's if you don't still have the ones yours came with.

The injected kit included 2 bolts that were an inch or so longer than the ones that secure the top hat to the pump assembly. This allows you enough space to connect/disconnect the transfer line and quick connect.

Basically you'll pull 2 bolts, insert longer ones, pull the other 2 out as you gently split the assembly apart and disconnect the lines. It also allows enough pivot to remove everything from the tank.