You need an inter chiller with temps at 55 degrees?? Why?? I went for a romp yesterday and ambient temp was 92. There is a reason for a chiller. Got 1.5 years on my warranty. Then I will build my own. Right off the factory a/c unit. Using a direct exchange unit. DX,, heat exchanger. A bit more tubing , 3 way valve, and sum gas will all it will take. A tank,, don't think so. Why?? Have all the components already installed.
So here is why I need an interchiller. At the start of my run, I'm at 111.2* by the end of the run I'm at 135*. This is unfortunate because the car is unpredicatable. If you have a chiller of sorts you can maintain a cool temp up to and until WOT. Here is my fastest pass of the night. 10.02 @ 140MPH. Imagine not having any timing pulled cause of temps and being able to hot lap the car if necessary during a competition.
This is still a work in progress!
Looking at your data......
That last run would have been a 9 second pass in my car....probably a 9.95. For some reason you lost 2MPH at both the 1/8th and 1/4 points.
How did you determine knock was false? Did you make a pass on the Q16 with knock sensors left a lone and still see some knock? Sorry if I missed that.
For comparison, at ChallengerFest last week DA was about +2500 and my IATs at the end of the quarter were around 155 - 160° F. I don't run an interchiller. My car was pulling about 2° of timing due to IAT in the logs. Mine was on E85 and VERY happy.
On the last pass I spun. Here is the log, see the dip in the speed.
So I spoke with some tuners, reviewed a lot of tuners "tunes" that they provided to me graciously and was told straight up: No mufflers, no resonators, solid motor mounts, a 2.72 pulley and a drive train that is solid, the body is going be sending signals to those knock sensors as soon as they find that right harmonic frequency which is just an artifact of the car. I also additionally had crap spark plugs in so it was a combination of things to test.
The Q16 was added to the 105 in a 1:5 gallon ratio (and it will not be run again, this was purley a safety measure). I ran the car down as comfortable as I felt, one notch below the 1/4 tank. Filled up with the gap sauce. The tune was revised to be conservative but still open up the knock sensors. They were multipied by 1.5 across all cylinders.
Promises I made to myself:
If I saw knock with the "R7" timing (which I never have) and Q16 with desensitized sensors tune in the car I was going to shut it down for the season and have the motor pulled. (Run 1)
If I saw knock with the "R8" timing (which I did not that night) and Q16 with desensitized sensors tune in the car I was going to shut it down for the season and have the motor pulled. (Run 2)
If I saw no knock in the "R7" tune, upgraded to the full timing in R8 and collect data. (Run 3)
If I saw no knock in the "R8" tune, leave the car alone and enjoy it till either you see knock or she gives other indicators of problems. (Run 4)
The car was screaming that night and it was fun, I am confident that like many have said it is a combination of bad gas (I will only ever get BP), the noise from my car (my car is fucking loud), and heat (affecting the bad gas). I have attached my logs for your review if you want. I also noticed that when a car spins and finally hooks it sends that right amount of "noise" to the sensors. But I will not desensitize for that, that's an unfortunate part of the game. The R8 is not a street tune, right now she is on a limited timing tune for 93 octane, which I got and filled up at BP this morning to flush out the Q16 that's left.
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