TH400 in A8

[Unholy707]

For clarity this is not my car, however the tuning has been changed, the pcm has been re-pinned and a neutral safety switch is wired in. The issue this person is having is a bitch of the time once he got the modules back.

Can’t just do a calibration change. It has to be bench flashed with a KTag to an m6 OS.

 

[Unholy707]

The neutral switch isn’t the problem, adding it to the pcm won’t simply make it work. The front power distribution center needs to be changed, and the main reason he can’t start the car is because he needs the reverse lockout signal from the reverse lockout solenoid from a tr6060. The wiring on the front PDC is very different from the m6 to the a8 - different wires go to the BCM, can’t just reconfigure it and hope for it to work. RFC hub didn’t need to be changed at all, it reads the configuration from the BCM. I can get him up and running, but it’s not going to be easy/cheap.

 

[Unholy707]

Basically, benchflash PCM to m6 OS, reconfigure BCM for m6 configuration, change engine harness/front power distribution harness, plug in a reverse lockout solinoid from a tr6060, and everything will work just fine. Or, he can mess with trying to pin in the reverse lockout solinoid since he already pinned in the neutral saftey where the clutch master cylinder connector goes (only 1 piece of the puzzle), and then make sure he has the correct wires going to the BCM. No need to mess with the RFC module.

 

[Unholy707]

I would use a Witech, put the modules back to stock configuration, ask for a refund from said trusted tuner, and do what I suggested

 

[Unholy707]

Th400 works like stock as long as the entire car is in an m6 configuration, which is possible.

 

[Unholy707]

Th400 works like stock as long as the entire car is in an m6 configuration AND has the reverse lockout solinoid AND neutral saftey/or clutch master cylinder (yes it has an electrical component) which is possible.

 

[Unholy707]

Shops will give you half the solution and then tell you they need your car to figure it out. Just how it is.

 

[Unholy707]

Reasons I asked if anyone found a simple plug and play solution for this yet. I know how to do it, but it’s a lot

 

[Unholy707]

Also, he will have to unplug the gas pedal, plug it back in, do a throttle position relearn, and actuate the ABS system afterwards. Only after the ABS system is actuated will it start if everything else is in order.

 

[Unholy707]

Good luck, let me know how he makes out for feel free to PM me.

 

[Unholy707]

Just trying to help out, I’m the only person that will share this info

 

[Widebody_moparmike]

Charger or challenger?

It’s 2019 challenger
Had AJ reconfigure the pcm/bcm and new rf hub , sent those items long with both working key fobs,
3 weeks later received them back , then waited 2 weeks for his crappy relay diagram

has two wires out of the rf hub , also had to pin 39 and 17 in the pcm c1 harness ,

fast forward to go time ( no pun intended)
Neither key would lock/unlock the car ,
Had to use the fob to push the start button even to be able to cycle the push to start , when it’s to the “like start time” zero voltage/signal is sent from the bcm to the starter relay (this is following dodges flow chart of operation)
For shits and jiggles I put the oem rf hub back in one key worked locking/unlocking but nothing else

So aj wanted me to send back to him,
2.5 weeks of going back an forth he claims the bcm is the problem (yet before hand all worked on his so called bench ) then states one of the dons isn’t working…… weird all of these items worked just fine before swapping to a th400.

now one key works with his rf hub but still have to push the fob to cycle the ignition with a security red dot on in the cluster (wasn’t like this ever)
Any help would be appreciated

 

[Unholy707]

It’s 2019 challenger
Had AJ reconfigure the pcm/bcm and new rf hub , sent those items long with both working key fobs,
3 weeks later received them back , then waited 2 weeks for his crappy relay diagram

has two wires out of the rf hub , also had to pin 39 and 17 in the pcm c1 harness ,

fast forward to go time ( no pun intended)
Neither key would lock/unlock the car ,
Had to use the fob to push the start button even to be able to cycle the push to start , when it’s to the “like start time” zero voltage/signal is sent from the bcm to the starter relay (this is following dodges flow chart of operation)
For shits and jiggles I put the oem rf hub back in one key worked locking/unlocking but nothing else

So aj wanted me to send back to him,
2.5 weeks of going back an forth he claims the bcm is the problem (yet before hand all worked on his so called bench ) then states one of the dons isn’t working…… weird all of these items worked just fine before swapping to a th400.

now one key works with his rf hub but still have to push the fob to cycle the ignition with a security red dot on in the cluster (wasn’t like this ever)
Any help would be appreciated

Sorry to hear this man. Do you have a bit of time and money? There’s no reason you had to do any of this. This method rarely works, and no reason the rfc hub needed to be touched at all. Shoot me a pm

 

[Unholy707]

Sounds like you’re having security seed issue

 

[Widebody_moparmike]

I mean at this point it would be cheaper to ditch all the factory modules and off to a stand alone like Holley or fuel tech , do a raspberry pi for items such like the windows/locks etc ,
Guess I’ll sit this race season out and rewire the car like all the others that have ditched factory a8s

 

[Unholy707]

I mean at this point it would be cheaper to ditch all the factory modules and off to a stand alone like Holley or fuel tech , do a raspberry pi for items such like the windows/locks etc ,
Guess I’ll sit this race season out and rewire the car like all the others that have ditched factory a8s

Yeah, I’m not trying to charge you a dime my man - just want to help. Just saying it’s going to cost you $ in some (factory) parts to make it work like factory. Pm me if you want to talk about it. My best suggestion is undo the wiring and have someone with a witech flash all of your modules bsck and start from there. It’s possible to have it working like stock dude without hacking things up

 

[Unholy707]

Around $1500 in wiring harnesses and everything you need I believe, and then you can make most of that back selling your current harnesses.

 

[Unholy707]

you can configure the BCM yourself, I can walk you through it, and have someone I trust who can flash you PCM correctly. That’s all your need is PCM flashed, configure BCM yourself, and like I said no need to touch the RFC module at all. And the correct factory wiring

 

[Unholy707]

Depends on if you want the car working like factory or a race car with a dead dashboard - not sure I’d go fueltech unless you’re ready to give a lot of functionality up

 

[Marc W]

It’s 2019 challenger
Had AJ reconfigure the pcm/bcm and new rf hub , sent those items long with both working key fobs,
3 weeks later received them back , then waited 2 weeks for his crappy relay diagram

has two wires out of the rf hub , also had to pin 39 and 17 in the pcm c1 harness ,

fast forward to go time ( no pun intended)
Neither key would lock/unlock the car ,
Had to use the fob to push the start button even to be able to cycle the push to start , when it’s to the “like start time” zero voltage/signal is sent from the bcm to the starter relay (this is following dodges flow chart of operation)
For shits and jiggles I put the oem rf hub back in one key worked locking/unlocking but nothing else

So aj wanted me to send back to him,
2.5 weeks of going back an forth he claims the bcm is the problem (yet before hand all worked on his so called bench ) then states one of the dons isn’t working…… weird all of these items worked just fine before swapping to a th400.

now one key works with his rf hub but still have to push the fob to cycle the ignition with a security red dot on in the cluster (wasn’t like this ever)
Any help would be appreciated

I did this 4 years ago. Fortunately for me…. It worked without the problems you’re seeing. Mine is a 2016 so that might be part of it. I did have to do a pain in the ass song and dance to get stuff to work though. I couldn’t shut the ignition off with the pts button. It would shut the engine down, but to turn the ignition off, I had to use the battery/ignition disconnect I had at the rear bumper. We ended up wiring a toggle switch to do that and placed it inside the console box. We have ditched all of that now and loving the simplicity and superior capabilities of the Holley EFI.