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Decided on a replacement for Go Man Go

cole3986

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I should hit 2500 miles on mine this weekend. We have 3 more TNT events for the year unless I can find a private rental. If anyone's interested in going in on a private rental at Beech Bend lemme know and I'll see if I can set one up.

I'm due an oil change and will do that in the next week or so. Picked up the oil and filter yesterday. I'll cut the filter, check the drain pan, and send a sample off to Blackstone this go around.

Any tips on the plug change? Mine's still not having any misfires or anything so I'm not sure I can convince the dealer to swap them for me. I'd prefer them do it for record keeping, but also wanna go to 2309s so not sure how that would work. I need to ask them.

Doesn't Weld offer a S71 rear in a 17x11 or 17x12? I'm not sure what rear wheel Ron runs but it looks amazing.
Speedy, mine had no misfires or codes but the plug gap was between .032 and .036 on all of them. The TSB requires that tech to duplicate the problem, so I was not going to deal with that since the car ran good. Tech would take my car out, beat on it and say that there is no problem (potentially). Plus, the Champion plugs gotta to go, imo. For these reasons, I installed NGK 2309 and gapped them to .024 (as stated in the TSB). Everyone I know who has a 170 and checked the plugs has the wrong gap. Not going to drag the 170 with crappy plugs that have the wrong gap. The passenger side plugs are a real challenge to replace.

Yes, Weld makes the S71 in 17" x 11" but they are special order, as no one carries them in chrome (black are available). I just don't feel like waiting 6 to 8 weeks and paying around 3K for the wheels (they retail around $ 1,650.00 each). I have been fighting this for a few weeks. I will sort it out, it takes me awhile to warm up to the idea. The rear tires and wheels are the last hurdle.

It is my understanding that there are no replacement engines currently available so the stakes are high, hurt the motor and car sits at the dealer for months. The rear cradle bolts are torqued to 165 foot pounds, whereas hellcats, RE's, are 124 foot pounds (as I recall). I do believe Ron S. was able to have the dealer install the cradle lockouts.
 


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Octanewide

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Unholy707

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All you need are the wobble 3/8 deep magnetic spark plug sockets and it’ll make quick work of it. 15 minutes or so to get them out. Small 1” wobble extension and a long one, but most of them will come out with just a deep 4” wobble extension built into it. It’ll put your socket wrench right above the above the valve cover. Taking the coils off and moving intercooler reservoir is a different story
 


fubar569

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Valve covers absolutely did NOT need a friggin 2" baffle directly over the entire length of the coils either.

I did plugs ONE TIME. That engineer can gather up every single phallus in the known universe and open wide.
 


cole3986

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loved it, I cannot wait to do it again

plugs.jpg
 


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I also have these which make quick work on all other cars I've done plugs on life savers they are: https://amzn.to/4dxxAWR

I've pulled 2 or 3 plugs outta mine and they were .031 to .032 but I only checked a couple easy ones outta curiosity.

I was thinking if you wanted to play strictly by the book a coil unplugged would set off a misfire code I think?
 


Unholy707

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loved it, I cannot wait to do it again

View attachment 146346
The ratchet on the black box and wire is a new one. I left mine disconnected from the firewall last time I did them. I shouldn’t have put the black box back on when I replaced my headlamp to dash harness.
 


Unholy707

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When I do mine again I’m gapping them to .021 and not thinking about them again
 


Demon Dan

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Speedy, mine had no misfires or codes but the plug gap was between .032 and .036 on all of them. The TSB requires that tech to duplicate the problem, so I was not going to deal with that since the car ran good. Tech would take my car out, beat on it and say that there is no problem (potentially). Plus, the Champion plugs gotta to go, imo. For these reasons, I installed NGK 2309 and gapped them to .024 (as stated in the TSB). Everyone I know who has a 170 and checked the plugs has the wrong gap. Not going to drag the 170 with crappy plugs that have the wrong gap. The passenger side plugs are a real challenge to replace.

Yes, Weld makes the S71 in 17" x 11" but they are special order, as no one carries them in chrome (black are available). I just don't feel like waiting 6 to 8 weeks and paying around 3K for the wheels (they retail around $ 1,650.00 each). I have been fighting this for a few weeks. I will sort it out, it takes me awhile to warm up to the idea. The rear tires and wheels are the last hurdle.

It is my understanding that there are no replacement engines currently available so the stakes are high, hurt the motor and car sits at the dealer for months. The rear cradle bolts are torqued to 165 foot pounds, whereas hellcats, RE's, are 124 foot pounds (as I recall). I do believe Ron S. was able to have the dealer install the cradle lockouts.
Ron did his cradle lockouts himself.
 


fubar569

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When I do mine again I’m gapping them to .021 and not thinking about them again
I'm literally contemplating dropping the K member out to do a short block just to shortcut the spark plugs again
 


cole3986

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there and do it without cursing, LOL.
Ron did his cradle lockouts himself.
On which 170? He installed the lockouts on three (3) 170's (he has purchased 3). I do believe the dealer installed them on #2 but I could be wrong.
 


Unholy707

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I'm literally contemplating dropping the K member out to do a short block just to shortcut the spark plugs again
I would if I had a lift
 


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I'm considering the Daryl Cox lockouts but I don't intend to hit 3 foot wheelies so gotta think on it.
 


Unholy707

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BMR ones work just fine and are hands down the best suspension mod I’ve done
 


Unholy707

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it keeps the rear cradle from shifting side to side. Car used to fishtail. Now plants and goes straight
 


cole3986

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I'm considering the Daryl Cox lockouts but I don't intend to hit 3 foot wheelies so gotta think on it.
Speedy,

IMO, the cradle rubber bushings have to be addressed, otherwise, you risk binding the driveshaft. I am surprised that you are dragging it without addressing.
 


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I'm considering the Daryl Cox lockouts but I don't intend to hit 3 foot wheelies so gotta think on it.
I did and would again. Make sure you don't take the front bolts all the way out to get the tabs off;)
 


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I did BMR on Go Man Go and it added a hint of noise, not a ton but if I can avoid it all the better. The Daryl Cox ones keep the rubber between the cradle which seems would help.
 


Unholy707

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I did BMR on Go Man Go and it added a hint of noise, not a ton but if I can avoid it all the better. The Daryl Cox ones keep the rubber between the cradle which seems would help.
I probably don’t notice it between the exhaust, supercharger and rear end screaming from solid diff brace
 




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