Got a new mod :)

[16GoManGoHC2]

NICE Speedy!!
I wrapped my JLT box in heat reflective insulation and put a foam seal over the intake pipe

 

[Octanewide]

I'm guessing the hood clearance problems have been fixed as in the video it looks like an adjustment of the hood stops is needed. I remember awhile back some hoods were sitting too high when closed against the airbox..

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Mine closes and seals pretty tight on the JLT rubber seals, I like it.

 

[Decay]

I like that mesh cover.
Mine picks up a lot of bugs and debris that I think that would deflect.

 

[Av8ing1]

NICE Speedy!!
I wrapped my JLT box in heat reflective insulation and put a foam seal over the intake pipe
View attachment 17289

Any Idea if the extra foam seal and heat tape helped any? What did you use for the foam seal? I've got a JLT on the way, might have to borrow some of your ideas.

 

[Mean Cat]

I'm guessing the hood clearance problems have been fixed as in the video it looks like an adjustment of the hood stops is needed. I remember awhile back some hoods were sitting too high when closed against the airbox..

They might have fixed the hood clearance issue since I had mine when first came out ?

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I like that mesh cover.
Mine picks up a lot of bugs and debris that I think that would deflect.

Mesh cover is actually to keep water out of it, but it will filter bugs and big stuff as well. I did not put the rain shield in the grill, mines open.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Any Idea if the extra foam seal and heat tape helped any? What did you use for the foam seal? I've got a JLT on the way, might have to borrow some of your ideas.

Foam is from McMaster Carr, it’s “skin” is 2” wide electrical tape. In my book every little bit helps lol

 

[Decay]

Mesh cover is actually to keep water out of it, but it will filter bugs and big stuff as well. I did not put the rain shield in the grill, mines open.

The big snot box intake sucks up all sorts of stuff.
I prefer the look of the older hood .

 

[Kotta376]

Speedy, can you please post any differences with how IATs react with the new JLT intake versus the stock one? I am curious to see what the rise and fall of the IATs are and if the IATs were lower cruising on the highway or higher cruising in traffic?

 

[Speedy!]

Man way too many variables to try to figure that out I think. I haven't had the stock intake on the car for 6 months or so. If I come across an old log of the stock intake I'll try to look at it.

What I can tell you is with the JLT the IATs were 35ish degrees over ambient cruising. So if it's 70 F out the IATs were 105.

 

[Kotta376]

Man way too many variables to try to figure that out I think. I haven't had the stock intake on the car for 6 months or so. If I come across an old log of the stock intake I'll try to look at it.

What I can tell you is with the JLT the IATs were 35ish degrees over ambient cruising. So if it's 70 F out the IATs were 105.

Dang... I was hoping to see if the stock intake was the same or hotter than the JLT while cruising at highway.

 

[Speedy!]

If you still have the stock intake box just look at your IAT and see how much higher it is than ambient and compare to the 35 deg F I'm seeing with the JLT.

 

[Kotta376]

If you still have the stock intake box just look at your IAT and see how much higher it is than ambient and compare to the 35 deg F I'm seeing with the JLT.

Than it’s about 3-5F hotter with the JLT

 

[Speedy!]

I doubt that but lots of variables like I said.

 

[Hpindy]

I have a theroy . With the bigger intake tube it holds more volume and with highway or low rpm driving the air in the tube is not moving fast enough so it heats up . But once you open the throttle blade more then say 25% the air starts moving and the iat's will drop fast .

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[Speedy!]

Here's some points to consider. I back to back tested a crappy "cold air intake" Mopar put out several years ago on my old supercharged car. It had no "cold air" feature about it and we jokingly called it a hot air intake LOL. However it picked up 30ish RWHP. Did this have anything to do with the air temp? Definitely not, it was all about air FLOW and the supercharger obviously liked it. This same crappy intake picked up 5-6 rwhp back to back on the stock 5.7 motor before it was forged, stroked, and supercharged. Also consider that SRT now has open filter elements on all the Hellcat models I believe and they've increased their hp ratings as well.

Now let's look at the Hellcat. My 2016 has several temp sensors, none of which are in the intake tube that I know of. All my intake tube has is a PCV bung and the MAF. The temp sensors are bolted to the supercharger base. The one I've been monitoring in my log is listed as "Aircharge Temperature". I'm not sure exactly which of the many sensors it's reading the temperature from, but I do know it's after the supercharger because as boost goes up so does the temperature reading. This is a result of the supercharger compressing the air which heats it up. I'll hook up HPTuners later today and see if I can find other temp sensors to monitor out of curiosity. Later models now have a temp sensor in the intake tube, so that testing would be interesting but they already have open element filters as previously mentioned.

Worrying about what the intake air temp or aircharge temp, or whatever, is cruising and idling is a moot point on these as the sensor, at least on my 2016, is bolted to the supercharger which is gonna heat up no matter what. What I see having the biggest impact on the aircharge temp is what my intercooler coolant temp says.

What we should really care about is the air temp as WOT. Looking at logs from the stock air box and my 2.72 pulley making 17-18psi vs the LMI I had on the car previously which had no shielding what so ever to block hot air, the LMI ran about 8 degrees cooler at the top of 4th gear 6500 RPM in my car. Still a lot of variables to consider and I found logs in similar weather but burnout time, idle time, etc all impact the end temps.

Even then the temperature isn't the real story though, it's air flow and 8 degrees is really nothing when we're talking about 125 - 130 F temps.

 

[Hpindy]

Here's some points to consider. I back to back tested a crappy "cold air intake" Mopar put out several years ago on my old supercharged car. It had no "cold air" feature about it and we jokingly called it a hot air intake LOL. However it picked up 30ish RWHP. Did this have anything to do with the air temp? Definitely not, it was all about air FLOW and the supercharger obviously liked it. This same crappy intake picked up 5-6 rwhp back to back on the stock 5.7 motor before it was forged, stroked, and supercharged. Also consider that SRT now has open filter elements on all the Hellcat models I believe and they've increased their hp ratings as well.

Now let's look at the Hellcat. My 2016 has several temp sensors, none of which are in the intake tube that I know of. All my intake tube has is a PCV bung and the MAF. The temp sensors are bolted to the supercharger base. The one I've been monitoring in my log is listed as "Aircharge Temperature". I'm not sure exactly which of the many sensors it's reading the temperature from, but I do know it's after the supercharger because as boost goes up so does the temperature reading. This is a result of the supercharger compressing the air which heats it up. I'll hook up HPTuners later today and see if I can find other temp sensors to monitor out of curiosity. Later models now have a temp sensor in the intake tube, so that testing would be interesting but they already have open element filters as previously mentioned.

Worrying about what the intake air temp or aircharge temp, or whatever, is cruising and idling is a moot point on these as the sensor, at least on my 2016, is bolted to the supercharger which is gonna heat up no matter what. What I see having the biggest impact on the aircharge temp is what my intercooler coolant temp says.

What we should really care about is the air temp as WOT. Looking at logs from the stock air box and my 2.72 pulley making 17-18psi vs the LMI I had on the car previously which had no shielding what so ever to block hot air, the LMI ran about 8 degrees cooler at the top of 4th gear 6500 RPM in my car. Still a lot of variables to consider and I found logs in similar weather but burnout time, idle time, etc all impact the end temps.

Even then the temperature isn't the real story though, it's air flow and 8 degrees is really nothing when we're talking about 125 - 130 F temps.

The 2018 and up have a IAT sensor instead of a MAF sensor. I log MAT, IAT , ambient temperature, and air charge temperature in my logs for a comparison .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[Av8ing1]

Here's some points to consider. I back to back tested a crappy "cold air intake" Mopar put out several years ago on my old supercharged car. It had no "cold air" feature about it and we jokingly called it a hot air intake LOL. However it picked up 30ish RWHP. Did this have anything to do with the air temp? Definitely not, it was all about air FLOW and the supercharger obviously liked it. This same crappy intake picked up 5-6 rwhp back to back on the stock 5.7 motor before it was forged, stroked, and supercharged. Also consider that SRT now has open filter elements on all the Hellcat models I believe and they've increased their hp ratings as well.

Now let's look at the Hellcat. My 2016 has several temp sensors, none of which are in the intake tube that I know of. All my intake tube has is a PCV bung and the MAF. The temp sensors are bolted to the supercharger base. The one I've been monitoring in my log is listed as "Aircharge Temperature". I'm not sure exactly which of the many sensors it's reading the temperature from, but I do know it's after the supercharger because as boost goes up so does the temperature reading. This is a result of the supercharger compressing the air which heats it up. I'll hook up HPTuners later today and see if I can find other temp sensors to monitor out of curiosity. Later models now have a temp sensor in the intake tube, so that testing would be interesting but they already have open element filters as previously mentioned.

Worrying about what the intake air temp or aircharge temp, or whatever, is cruising and idling is a moot point on these as the sensor, at least on my 2016, is bolted to the supercharger which is gonna heat up no matter what. What I see having the biggest impact on the aircharge temp is what my intercooler coolant temp says.

What we should really care about is the air temp as WOT. Looking at logs from the stock air box and my 2.72 pulley making 17-18psi vs the LMI I had on the car previously which had no shielding what so ever to block hot air, the LMI ran about 8 degrees cooler at the top of 4th gear 6500 RPM in my car. Still a lot of variables to consider and I found logs in similar weather but burnout time, idle time, etc all impact the end temps.

Even then the temperature isn't the real story though, it's air flow and 8 degrees is really nothing when we're talking about 125 - 130 F temps.

Thanks for the informative observations. I for one would like to see your continued analysis and conclusions from logged runs. I think your thoughts are probably right on. Too much obsessing over minor things that have little actual impact goes on a lot with things like intake discussions. Non the less, I can't help but be interested. One of my concerns in my car as it is a daily driver, is heat soaked loss of power after sitting in traffic (experienced on other cars with aftermarket intakes to be more pronounced than OEM air boxes). This may be somewhat unavoidable and occur with stock parts as well but I'd not want to make things worse. As I'm not track focused or street racing, this scenario is probably more important to me than all out full power situations in which any warmer air would quickly be consumed. I assume that the car will pull timing with warmer intake air temps and this is what gives that fall on its face feeling? Not a nice feeling.

 

[Speedy!]

The 2018 and up have a IAT sensor instead of a MAF sensor. I log MAT, IAT , ambient temperature, and air charge temperature in my logs for a comparison .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

I do aircharge temp and ambient. I'll check for MAT and IAT to see what they show. Replacing the MAF with an IAT sensor is a pretty significant design change. An IAT in the air tube will read a LOT lower than one bolted to the base of the SC. I'd say 30-40 deg difference.

Thanks for the informative observations. I for one would like to see your continued analysis and conclusions from logged runs. I think your thoughts are probably right on. Too much obsessing over minor things that have little actual impact goes on a lot with things like intake discussions. Non the less, I can't help but be interested. One of my concerns in my car as it is a daily driver, is heat soaked loss of power after sitting in traffic (experienced on other cars with aftermarket intakes to be more pronounced than OEM air boxes). This may be somewhat unavoidable and occur with stock parts as well but I'd not want to make things worse. As I'm not track focused or street racing, this scenario is probably more important to me than all out full power situations in which any warmer air would quickly be consumed. I assume that the car will pull timing with warmer intake air temps and this is what gives that fall on its face feeling? Not a nice feeling.

The stock tunes have a "hot" reference IAT of 212 F which is way on up there. As IAT rises it slowly starts to remove a degree of timing here or there, but I doubt you're getting it hot enough to have it feel like it's falling on it's face unless you're on a road course just beating on it. The more likely cause for what you're feeling is the aircharge dropping in hotter air and making less power overall. If you daily drive the car and don't race just leave it stock is what I'd say though. I won't be doing any temp testing. I used to obsess over stuff like that but have learned single digit degree F differences make zero difference in anything. I made a couple good pulls in 80 degree F air the other day and the aircharge temp in the logs never went over 131 F after a pull from 3rd to midway through 5th and that's good enough for me at 17.5psi of boost.

EDIT:

As a point of comparison, my old car with the Magnuson 2.3L blower on there at about 15psi of boost would get to 150ish IATs in similar conditions and driving so 130s is excellent based on my previous experience. Friends with Kenne Bell superchargers would be 200!