The price was right so I snagged it but...

[Mean Cat]

Well this escalated quickly

It always does.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

And then lack of load makes it's own mess doesn't it? Your supercharger has been through every scenario this year.

Yes, Lack of load (free rev) spooled the blower up faster then the coupling could handle the power transfer to the blower. It amazing how fast the engine spools up with an instant 21 psi of boost as soon as you hit it. Don’t know if the 2.7 is going to build boost as fast as a +10 spinning a 2.72 on a 2.4 blower, I think the bigger lower gets things going quicker it seems like. This dyno pull shows that as well, even with a load 2000 to 6500 in 4th gear (M6) spools pretty damn quick!! You will notice the difference no doubt!!

 

[Speedy!]

The 10% lower would act as a leverage point I'm sure on the upper pulley. FYI he stated to me a 2.85 and 10% lower was the max on these before the rotors started to swap material with each other. Most of the ones he fixes were a result of this happening. Doing the math backward from that I calculated the max female rotor speed should be under 35,000 RPM. Just repeating what he said, no idea how long that takes to occur or under what conditions.

Had this 2.7 not just fallen in my lap I'd not have been looking to change anything, but since it did it'll complete the Redeye setup under the hood. I may have to slow the car down quite a bit to stay in the 10.00 class, or find a 9.50 class that's similar. Those are rare from what I've seen though.

 

[Mean Cat]

The 10% lower would act as a leverage point I'm sure on the upper pulley. FYI he stated to me a 2.85 and 10% lower was the max on these before the rotors started to swap material with each other. Most of the ones he fixes were a result of this happening. Doing the math backward from that I calculated the max female rotor speed should be under 35,000 RPM. Just repeating what he said, no idea how long that takes to occur or under what conditions.

Had this 2.7 not just fallen in my lap I'd not have been looking to change anything, but since it did it'll complete the Redeye setup under the hood. I may have to slow the car down quite a bit to stay in the 10.00 class, or find a 9.50 class that's similar. Those are rare from what I've seen though.

 

[vortecd]

Had this 2.7 not just fallen in my lap I'd not have been looking to change anything, but since it did it'll complete the Redeye setup under the hood. I may have to slow the car down quite a bit to stay in the 10.00 class, or find a 9.50 class that's similar. Those are rare from what I've seen though.

Not a bad thing

 

[Speedy!]

Anyone have torque specs for the supercharger cooling brick screws inside the blower case? I need to disassemble the unit for shipping to SDG and the bricks and rear manifold come off. Manifold not a huge deal but figure those brick bolts are ones you don't want coming loose and getting ingested. If not I'll just have to go by feel when removing them, and maybe a drop of blue loctite when they go back on? Figure to use some petroleum jelly on the coolant brick o-rings @16GoManGoHC2 what do you think?

Sounds like the front drive on newer superchargers no longer uses a paper gasket but has been replaced with anaerobic gasket maker. That was new for me so I'll have to pick that up for re-assembly.

Also, anyone got the Metco tools laying around and wanna get rid of them? I'll need the HPT2000, HPT1000 hex adapter, and the HPT2001 Demon/RE pin adapter as well.

Boxes from SDG are enroute.

 

[fumanchu182]

Can ya take a photo cause when looking at the fsm this is what it references:


In regards to the tools, id buy them from hhp, theyre worth the investment.

Also my kong uses the aenerobic sealer as well. The paper gaskets are unobtanium.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Anyone have torque specs for the supercharger cooling brick screws inside the blower case? I need to disassemble the unit for shipping to SDG and the bricks and rear manifold come off. Manifold not a huge deal but figure those brick bolts are ones you don't want coming loose and getting ingested. If not I'll just have to go by feel when removing them, and maybe a drop of blue loctite when they go back on? Figure to use some petroleum jelly on the coolant brick o-rings @16GoManGoHC2 what do you think?

I just tighten them by feel for bolt size. If you want to find a true torque spec just look up the torque spec for the thread size in a button head and use that. But yes I use blue Loctite on them they don’t have to be overly tight but yes you don’t want them to come loose either lol.

The anaerobic sealer that I use is this Loctite stuff works great doesn’t Hardin until made it and you wipe off the excess that squeezes out and it makes it perfect seal.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

PS, don’t use Vaseline on the orings, you don’t want oil in the coolant, it’s a no no as it oil contaminates water based coolants and cuts down their heat transferability. I just wet them with slippery saliva on assembly or use a water based Lube like KY from your bedroom nightstand drawer 😂

 

[BULL]

Warning, .02 ahead.


Do not use petroleum jelly on o-rings!



(Unless they have failed and you want to intentionally swell them as a temporary fix.)


.02

 

[Speedy!]

Water based lube, got it. Coolant itself is a bit slippery so I'll use some of that.

@fumanchu182 these are the little screws I'm talking about. Ironically when searching pictures I found this one that you actually posted a while back.

 

[thetalonguy]

Water based lube, got it. Coolant itself is a bit slippery so I'll use some of that.

@fumanchu182 these are the little screws I'm talking about. Ironically when searching pictures I found this one that you actually posted a while back.

View attachment 73917

This was a really good rebuilding video. Guy wasn't aware of torque specs, but does mention tightening center screws first and then front and back last. If you fast forward to about 17 mins is where he's reinstalling the bricks.

Definitely was a great video to watch and I remember he does give torque specs and tightening sequences where available.

 

[Smitty]

Anyone have torque specs for the supercharger cooling brick screws inside the blower case? I need to disassemble the unit for shipping to SDG and the bricks and rear manifold come off. Manifold not a huge deal but figure those brick bolts are ones you don't want coming loose and getting ingested. If not I'll just have to go by feel when removing them, and maybe a drop of blue loctite when they go back on? Figure to use some petroleum jelly on the coolant brick o-rings @16GoManGoHC2 what do you think?

Sounds like the front drive on newer superchargers no longer uses a paper gasket but has been replaced with anaerobic gasket maker. That was new for me so I'll have to pick that up for re-assembly.

Also, anyone got the Metco tools laying around and wanna get rid of them? I'll need the HPT2000, HPT1000 hex adapter, and the HPT2001 Demon/RE pin adapter as well.

Boxes from SDG are enroute.[/QUOTE

PS, don’t use Vaseline on the orings, you don’t want oil in the coolant, it’s a no no as it oil contaminates water based coolants and cuts down their heat transferability. I just wet them with slippery saliva on assembly or use a water based Lube like KY from your bedroom nightstand drawer 😂

Wait, how’d you know the lube was in the…. Oh never mind. 🤔😳

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Wait, how’d you know the lube was in the…. Oh never mind. 🤔😳

Just a wild guess lol
Where do you keep yours??

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

This was a really good rebuilding video. Guy wasn't aware of torque specs, but does mention tightening center screws first and then front and back last. If you fast forward to about 17 mins is where he's reinstalling the bricks.

Definitely was a great video to watch and I remember he does give torque specs and tightening sequences where available.

Saw about 1/2 dozen things I’d do different in that video. One thing I did notice in that video though right in the beginning notice in the supercharger under the bricks the individual runners that came up from the valve area to the bottom of the bricks. Thats one way one could tell a newer supercharger from an older supercharger. That’s one of the things they did to stiffen the case and also make individual port runners like a tunnel Ram intake. you can see the difference in the pictures here of an old blower empty case that’s wide open above the valve ports and in a newer case look up inside you can see how the runner extends all the way up to the bottom of the cooling bricks?

Newer supercharger, about 2018 and up, notice the runner that goes up to just under the cooling bricks



Older supercharger, 15 to appx 18, notice how the whole area is open and no connection between the supercharger chamber and outer walls where unit is bolted to the heads. This type is weaker and likes to break apart easier when twisted on hard with increased rpm and boost.

 

[thetalonguy]

Well if my bearings go on mine...I know whose house I'm crashing...I can do all the work, just tell me what to do. I'll actually be in your area on Saturday for a large regional Viper event.

 

[Mean Cat]

Wait, how’d you know the lube was in the…. Oh never mind. 🤔😳

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Well if my bearings go on mine...I know whose house I'm crashing...I can do all the work, just tell me what to do. I'll actually be in your area on Saturday for a large regional Viper event.

My area? Viper event??

 

[thetalonguy]

My area? Viper event??

There's a guy hosting a private event in Coopersburg, PA for Vipers, Ferrari's and Shelby (Furds too).

 

[Speedy!]

Got the blower disassembled. I think I found what happened to it. These Litens pulleys are supposed to be decoulper, so when you lock the shaft it shouldn't spin clockwise, but SHOULD spin counter clock wise. That's how the decoupler works AFAIK. This one was locked up. Wouldn't back spin. I go to remove the pulley, flip the snout over and the 15mm shaft bolt head literally falls off. It had snapped and this was before I even touched it. My "guess" is that the decoupler or something went bad and somehow caused that bolt to break?

Getting that pulley off was MUCH harder than on my Hellcat. I have a big boy impact, Nitrocat 1150 which as 1295ft/lbs breakaway torque. It wouldn't budge it! I put a heat gun on the front of the pulley for 30 seconds or so and brought it up to 150° F and hit it again and it broke free. Crazy it was that tight. No loctite on threads. That had to be over torqued?

I'll get everything cleaned up tomorrow and off to SDG Motorsports for the rebuild. While it's gone I'll take the time to clean the intercooler bricks, lid, etc. They have a lot of oil residue on them. Not sure if something else was going on, or just no catch can or what.

@16GoManGoHC2 I wanna clean up the TMAP sensors. I have some CRC QD electrical cleaner, figure it's G2G on these TMAPs? https://amzn.to/3QVTnxh