The price was right so I snagged it but...

[16GoManGoHC2]

Jesse at SDG received the supercharger and has started analysis. He said so far he's found nothing wrong with the base but will pull the rear cover to check rear gear set/bearings. He asked if I still want to rebuild it saying he doesn't think it's going to need it. He also stated they can only be rebuilt 3 times so he tries to save that for when it's actually needed. Something about the rear discharge bearings can only be replaced 3 times. Interesting. He says he'll rebuild it anyway if that's what I want otherwise he'll refund the rebuild fee for the base. Says the snout needs work and he's gonna fix that up.

I don't mind spending the money on the base honestly, but don't wanna just throw $1000 away either. What do you guys think? I'm leaning toward telling him to go ahead since it's already there and I'd rather know 100% it's good before putting it back on the car.

Me, I’d leave the gear end alone especially if their saying it’s good. Especially if the magnets (4 total) are clean and there’s no aluminum glitter in the bottom of the gear case. The bearing are held in place by what’s called “staking” they have a tool that makes little crimps in the aluminum bores in over the bearing outer race, that’s what can only be done so many times before there’s no material left to crimp. That’s the critical end of the assembly that holds the rotors in place away from one another, if one moves because it’s crimp is compromised it will allow the rotors to touch one another. That could be why they scuffed one another, and I said could not did but something took the coating off where it’s missing. If the end gaps between rotor ends and housing is the same for both rotors then one didn’t move, if they differ one moved, (usually .006”) at that point I’d think about rebuilding that end but that’s the complicated end, I’d rather leave that factory if it’s ok. It’s oil circulation lubed, the big gear spinning acts like a gear pump and moves oil up to oil feed ports that have circular magnets in them the oil passes through before getting to the bearings. You can do more harm then good in that end easily. Spend the saved money on having them pin both couplings to the shafts and pin the gears in the gear case to the rotor shafts, especially the male rotor on the smaller gear. My .02

 

[Speedy!]

He said he'll crack the gear case open and check things over and refill with fresh synthetic oil at no charge if everything looks good. I would expect the inspection includes checking tolerances. I almost wish he didn't give me a choice LOL.

 

[Speedy!]

Well, I told him to inspect it and if the gear set discharge end looked good then maybe compromise and leave that a lone based on @16GoManGoHC2 advice and just upgrade the front end bearings. I asked if they're upgrades over stock to confirm and re-iterated I plan to run a 2.72 pulley and race the car and I needed peace of mind I wouldn't have a problem at an event I could have avoided. The travel expense and effort would be more than the rebuild fee but I had to rely on his expertise to guide the decision.

 

[Demoniccat]

Surprised that a couple of tig weld spots can’t be placed where the staked retainers holding bearings sit. Allowing a broaching knurled operation then polish bearing surface for unlimited rebuilds. Probably cost prohibitive, and causes possible core shift. These blowers operate at tight tolerances varying case temp from cold start to full on max heat cycle I suppose a lot of dynamic loads and thermal expansion going on.

Sounds like a solid plan having the pro inspect back end, rework only if suspect to go forward with full rebuild. Peace of mind while saving money for other things. Again wish I had that choice of 2 blowers.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Ceramic hybrids on the inlet plate side survive, I wouldn’t use them on the snout though, coupling side yes, pulley side no.
Pin the couplings at the very least, both halves. Pinning the bigger gear is as easy as pinning the couplings, the smaller gear a bit involved (but it’s the weakest link and most gained to be pinned) as you have to reset the timing once the bolt is loosened on that gear, it’s LH thread remember). At bare minimum in the gearvend if their taking the cover off Have them torque the the gear bolts and smother them in loctite 290 (wicking grade) upon reassembly if they pin or even just after torquing, it will find its way inside if left to soak on the bolt flanges a while and help keep them from moving. Port the inlet plate while it’s off and port match the snout to it, there’s gain to be had there. That’s how I’d spend that $1000.

 

[Speedy!]

I don't think I can send him this thing to perform his work, then give him instructions on how to do the work that would be a little awkward. I'll have to get whatever his standard services are on the rebuild.

He offers a billet bearing plate that's CNC'd and he did recommend it, but others I asked said to pass as they'd not seen it help much. It was $1400 so pretty expensive compared to what I was wanting done. He doesn't offer snout porting any longer due to problems he's seen. Getting machines setup to port without breaking through, variances in casting thickness, areas that have to be welded then machined, etc. Instead he has a cast snout that's larger and free flowing, but he didn't recommend the snout without the bearing plate.

All in all he's been great to work with and tries to talk you out of spending money more than selling you more stuff.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I don't think I can send him this thing to perform his work, then give him instructions on how to do the work that would be a little awkward. I'll have to get whatever his standard services are on the rebuild.

He offers a billet bearing plate that's CNC'd and he did recommend it, but others I asked said to pass as they'd not seen it help much. It was $1400 so pretty expensive compared to what I was wanting done. He doesn't offer snout porting any longer due to problems he's seen. Getting machines setup to port without breaking through, variances in casting thickness, areas that have to be welded then machined, etc. Instead he has a cast snout that's larger and free flowing, but he didn't recommend the snout without the bearing plate.

All in all he's been great to work with and tries to talk you out of spending money more than selling you more stuff.

Agree, but I think he offers pinning the couplings on his rebuilds, wouldn’t hurt to ask on that, it’s easily done before adding the bolt's. Jon Bonds blue ceramic blower Lube is pretty good stuff. Don’t know what they use but Personally I’d use JB’s. It’s proven to lower gear case temps considerably especially in over driven applications. Best applied to a cleaned out gear case, ie after cover was removed and interior washed out with brake cleaner and cover put back on, fill with 6 oz’s and done.

https://www.jonbondperformance.com/product/jb-supercharger-oil/

 

[vortecd]

Don't know why these blowers are so different then others. Seems they have more issues like only 3 rebuilds with the bearing. @16GoManGoHC2 is our expert and knows way more then I do on these things. Nothing seems normal with them compared to other blowers

 

[Speedy!]

The package I paid for does say pinned shaft and staked bearings. He said once he inspects the rear gears if it doesn't need anything he'll refill it with synthetic oil at no charge.

 

[Speedy!]

Don't know why these blowers are so different then others. Seems they have more issues like only 3 rebuilds with the bearing. @16GoManGoHC2 is our expert and knows way more then I do on these things. Nothing seems normal with them compared to other blowers

Well, considering they're good for 100K miles, 3 rebuilds is a lot of miles. Agree on Mike knowing this stuff, great to have him around to provide advice. Not sure how he knows all the stuff he does, lots of experience I reckon. I coulda taken the blower all apart I'm sure, but not so sure on putting it back together, at least not in a way it'd work LOL.

 

[Hickster]

hickster here,
man what a week since the hospital and others attempted to kill me. at 65, and watch out. too much $$$ too be had at a young age. people whom don't need it want it,, sad bastards,,,, ass holes. my buggy rico has been in touch and thanks for all the wishes, prayers, and concerns. you guys and gals are family. makes me sneeze to be so nice, buttttt, needs to be. primary car has a flat so going to drive the h/c today. moe later,,,, tell ya how i died again and comma. sneez ya////

 

[Speedy!]

Welcome back buddy!

 

[Smitty]

hickster here,
man what a week since the hospital and others attempted to kill me. at 65, and watch out. too much $$$ too be had at a young age. people whom don't need it want it,, sad bastards,,,, ass holes. my buggy rico has been in touch and thanks for all the wishes, prayers, and concerns. you guys and gals are family. makes me sneeze to be so nice, buttttt, needs to be. primary car has a flat so going to drive the h/c today. moe later,,,, tell ya how i died again and comma. sneez ya////

Glad to see you’re back. 👍

 

[Speedy!]

Here's this week's installment of adventures in IHI superchargers. Redeye pulley was a bastard to get off!

 

[Smitty]

Here's this week's installment of adventures in IHI superchargers. Redeye pulley was a bastard to get off!

Just wondering, did you drain the SC oil? I know you mentioned the drain plugs earlier in the video. Seems if you ship anything with oil there’s all type of precautions you have to follow and I didn’t see any plastic bag the SC was in so I’m guessing it was drained.

 

[drag racer]

Super-informative video, Speedy - thanks!

 

[Speedy!]

Didn't drain gear oil.

 

[Smitty]

Didn't drain gear oil.

Surprising. Will be interesting to see the difference once you get it on the car and how much boost it puts out.

 

[Speedy!]

My crate engine showed up with oil in it from Mopar. Surprised me as well.

 

[Hickster]

drain it. damn rain. all the major components are there and seem to be good. now comes the fun part,,, controls. out of many, 1 wire will do it. a bitch it is.